Nintendo

Nintendrawer Installation

This is my step-to-step guide on how to upgrade a front-loading Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) with a Ninten-Drawer.

What is the Ninten-Drawer

The Ninten-Drawer is an over-engineered solution to the greatest fallacy of the legendary front-loading NES from 1985. It is a replacement slot mechanism for the cartridge to load into the console.

At the time of this blog entry, it can be purchased from RockerGaming website; some variants might be in other thrift or 3D-printing shops.

The original mechanism required that a cartridge was inserted in a loose drawer at an angle to the console's connector and then pressed down to align to fit. This loose connection has created significant ambiguity with malfunctions; when powering on the console and there's nothing but a colored screen or a flashing LED, it's hard to tell if a game is defective, the console is defective, or if it is simply not seated properly. Many, many times, this is simply the problem: a badly seated cartridge, with no affirmation on how secured it is, aside from repeated trial-and-error, removing and reinserting the cartridge.

Instead, the Ninten-Drawer requires that the user inserts the cartridge directly through the slot, much like the top-loading consoles which proceeded this version of the NES. A toggleable magnet system catches the cartridge as it enters the console and holds onto it tightly. The cartridge can then be removed by pulling from corner to corner until the magnets give up the connection.

The Ninten-Drawer vastly improves the cartridge-insertion step by providing a reliable and direct connection between the game and the console, and the magnet system gives the console a satisfying grip on the game cartridge ensuring that it has a snug fit with the console, preventing ambiguity on why games do not load when switching.

Overview

NES console, Ninten-Drawer, Screwdriver, DeOxIt

Steps

1. Remove the top cover (and any inserted game or attached controllers).

Remove game cartridge

Cartridge removed

Remove controllers

Controller removed

2. Remove the screws under the console.

Remove the screws under the console

Remove the six (6) Philips head screws around the bottom of the console.

3. Remove the top cover.

Remove top cover

Top removed

4. Remove the RF shield screws.

The top RF shield has seven (7) Philips screws around the top, surround the cartridge slot.

Remove RF shield screws

5. Lift up the RF Shield.

Lift RF Shield

Shield removed

6. Remove screws around the old cartridge drawer.

Remove the six (6) Philips screws, two in each of the top-most corners including one silver screw on each side below the top-most screw, and one more screw per bottom corner.

Remaining screws under shield

The silver screws are not needed for the Ninten-Drawer; they are not needed for reassembly, but keep these screws with the old drawer and 72-pin connector when removed.

7. Remove the old cartridge drawer.

Firmly grab the cartridge drawer by the metal piece, lifting it up slightly to clear the motherboard and the front of the console, then pull the drawer out of the connector.

Grasp drawer

Lift up

8. Remove the remaining screws near AC/DC converter.

There are two (2) Philips screws around the back corner of the motherboard, near the power supply and video input jacks.

Remaining screws under top shield

9. Separate the motherboard from the lower shield.

The green-masked motherboard can be lifted out of the console, but might still be attached to another RF shield on the bottom.

Grab motherboard

Separate the green board from the bottom metal.

Separate from lower shield

Rotate the motherboard up and around to expose the 72-pin connector on the motherboard.

Rotate 72 pin

10. Remove the 72-pin connector.

Firmly grab one corner of the 72-pin connector.

Grab connector

Apply steady pressure from the corner to loosen the connector from the board, then move your hand down to the other corner and pull out with the same steady pressure. Repeat back and forth between the corners until the connector is removed.

Connector removed

11. Apply DeOxIt to the exposed pins.

While the 72 pins on the motherboard are exposed, use a cotton swab and a thin layer of DeOxIt forumla to coat the pins, removing any old oxidation and improving the connection.

DeOxIt 72 pins motherboard

12. Install the Ninten-Drawer.

Align the bottom 72-bin connector of the Ninten-Drawer to the 72-pins on the motherboard.

Align NintenDrawer Motherboard

Apply steady pressure to one corner of the connector to firmly seat it on the motherboard, then move your hand down to apply the same pressure to the other corner. Repeat between each corner, securing the connector over the pins.

Align back

The black drawer piece should be completely over all the pins on the motherboard, viewable from the back.

NintenDrawer Inserted

The holes on the Ninten-Drawer will also align with the holes on the motherboard.

13. Insert Cartridge and Test.

Reinsert the motherboard over the bottom RF shield, aligning the power and AV ports on the back corner of the console.

This is a good time to insert a known working cartridge.

Important! Make sure you provide support to the drawer when inserting and removing cartridges without the screws inserted.

Cartridge Inserted

14. Reassemble.

Start with the two screws by the AC/DC converter junction in the corner.
Reinsert the four (4) Philips screws around the Ninten-Drawer.
- The two silver screws above the top-most screws around the Ninten-Drawer can be omitted, conserved with the old 72-pin connector.
Reinstall the top shield, then the seven (7) Philips screws around the shield.
Replace the top cover, flip the console back over, and reinsert the six (6) Philips screws from underneath.

User Guide

Insert

Insert the cartridge directly into the Ninten-Drawer.

Insert cartridge

Important!

DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE CARTRIDGE.

Instead, push the cartridge further into the drawer. There should be a satisfying click along with a shift of the cartridge to the back of the console as it is grabbed by the magnets.

Push cartridge

Remove

The magnet system has a strong grip on the cartridge.

Pull cartridge

It is recommended to use two hands to remove the cartridge, one on each side of the cartridge.

Corner cartridge removed

Work on nudging the cartridge out of the console corner by corner. The magnets will eventually give up the cartridge, and it can be pulled out of the Ninten-Drawer.

References

Rockergaming Instructions

NES Satellite Wireless Four Score

I was nearly shocked when I learned that any information about the ancient piece of tech for the Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) known as the NES Satellite was barely saved by efforts of the WaybackMachine. This is my vailant attempt to recover important information from that article from over 12 years ago that is no easily longer accessible, and provide my own 'research'.

What is it?

The NES Satellite was Nintendo's first wireless accessory for a home video game console, released in 1989, before the more popular wired version, the Four Score. This device allows up to four simultaneous wireless players to connect to a single console.

How does it work?

A small infrared receiver plugs into the NES console's controller ports, allowing players to sit up to 15-20 feet away.

The Satellite deck has a toggle power button to power the deck and transmit to the receiver installed on the console. In testing, it turns itself off when no input is detected after about 10 minutes, so it has a way to preserve battery life.

There's also a switch to change from regular gamepad to 'GUN', or the NES Zapper. This is because the ports use different pins to read the NES Zapper, so this switch tells the Satellite to send the needed Zapper inputs to the console.

It also includes "Turbo" selectors for both the A and B buttons, instantly converting all connected standard controllers into turbo models.

Any issues with it, unlike the wired version, the Four Score?

Unfortunately it does have limitations in the design, mainly the line of sight for its wireless reception. This system works until someone blocks the receiver or the transmitter is moved. The ideal way to operate the Satellite is by placing it on a table at a height similar to the receiver on the console, facing it directly, and ensure nothing can get in between the direct line of communication. Perhaps mirrors can make creative solutions if line of sight is not possible, but this can also provide other unexpected interference.

On the archived site, users have also reported response lag when using all four players simultaneously. It also required 6 large C batteries for power.

Still, for most games that have only two players, or that desire for a kinda-wireless Zapper experience, it's very worthwhile.

Teardown

The following images were recovered from archive.org, originally on the retrofixes.com website but no longer has the blog entry.

The Satellite deck is secured by six Phillips head screws around the rubber feet. The receiver to be connected to the console is secured by four Phillips head screws on the back around the outside.

Removable screws from the bottom and back of the Satellite deck and receiver connector, respectfully

The disassembled receiver

The darker back cover comes off, and the back of the board is exposed, with wires connected to the battery terminals. Four more Phillips head screws secure the board to the top.

Removed outerpiece, additional screws hold motherboard to top

Motherboard removed from Satellite top

My Own Modifications

The power supply circuitry is the Satellite's most critical flaw that must be addressed. I was especially aware of the 6 C batteries required to power the device. But upon research and testing, this power requirement is because the circuit was designed to work on a supply of 9 Volts. 6 times 1.5 equals 9, and C batteries were the compromise to providing a long-enough capacity without frequent replenishment, despite still needing to stock up on this large and rarely used battery type.

What I opted for, instead, was a direct barrel jack connection to the battery terminals in lieu of the batteries. If the device only requires 9 Volts of potential energy, then a 9V switching adapter with a simple barrel jack modification would be perfect. Yes, the Satellite itself would no longer be wireless, being tethered to an AC adapter, but given the problem of blocking the line of sight required for operation, it was a worthwhile tradeoff. Just ensure that the switching adapter supplied connects to the correct side where the positive battery terminal would connect to on the board.

Nintendo Classic Controllers on Switch

Official Nintendo Switch Online Controllers

As of the time of this post, Nintendo has released five sets of controllers based on their original legacy consoles.

NES
SNES
N64
Gamecube
Sega Mega Drive / Genesis

Advantages

Wireless
Good battery life
Easier maintenance
USB-C for charging and connectivity (post-NES)

NES

Charge on console just like joy-cons

SNES

The perfect mini controller w/ D-Pad and 6 buttons

N64

Perfect for entire N64 library

Gamecube

Flexible outside library, very good for 3rd person platformers

Downsides

Higher costs
Low availability
No other modern features
- gyro
Unable to configure controllers (remapping)
Some unsustainable materials

NES

No other ways to charge these controllers (third party joy-con chargers are not reliable)
Very small number of buttons
No dogbone variant

SNES

Famicom variant only available to Japan

N64

Only one color option
Thumbstick is less reliable

Genesis / Mega Drive

As many buttons as the NES

Gamecube

Only one color option

The big problems

Less flexibility outside intended online library
No color variants

Alternatives?

8bitdo DIY

DIY Showcase

8bitdo sells a wide range of replaceable circuit boards for the original intended controllers. They replace the wired method to the original console with a wireless protocol that the Nintendo Switch can find and treat as if it's one of the official wireless Switch Online products.

Because you only purchase the circuit board (the interior), this means that this product can be used with any color, edition, or other custom variant of the legacy controller that you can source. Personally, I have used the DIY N64 edition in order to have some colorful N64 controllers that still work on the Nintendo Switch as well as the intended Switch Online official products.

I personally recommend this for tinkers, especially for those who either own the original controllers, or have ease of access to pre-owned controllers and some electronics tools to open and clean them up.

Handheld Legend

Handheld Legend Website GitHub Repo

HandHeldLegend specializes in building optimal Nintendo Switch Pro Controllers, but they have an ongoing project to source an optimal Nintendo Gamecube controller, compatible with both the legacy console and the Nintendo Switch in preparation for the Gamecube Switch Online library, but of course specially for Smash Bros fanatics with consideration of other flexibility using added modern features, including a sidekick app that can tweak, calibrate and remap bindings without a computer or console.

DaemonBite

Daemonbite Website GitHub Repo

This is a project of build-it-yourself USB adapters to convert existing wired controllers to USB controllers that the Nintendo Switch can recognize as Pro Controllers.

Retro Pi Switch

GitHub Repo

This is a promising open-source project that simply takes the wired protocol of a controller and uses a Raspberry Pi as a converter and transmitter to the Nintendo Switch. Only tinkering done around the connection, no need to touch the controller internals or the Switch software.

Joy-Cons in perpetual beta on Steam Input

Steam Input is frankly broken

Bad news is that support still feels like it's in "perpetual beta". The good news is that Steam Deck can also use Joy-Cons.

For Steam Input overall, there's some kind of backend overhaul happening to get modern controllers and the Steam Deck controller in feature parity, so many controller features seem to be breaking when least expected.

New Gyro Modes

In the midst of this, there are also alternative Gyro modes that will eventually replace the standard:

As Mouse, and
As Joystick

with:

Gyro to Mouse,
Gyro to Deflection, and
Gyro to...Joystick Camera.

I think this is because a Joystick Camera can become very vague in describing intended implementation; some games whether in 1st or 3rd person allow the camera to be swiveled with right stick, and many modern shooters use it for rotating a camera. The former is accomplished with Deflection, the latter with Camera.

Extra Gyro Settings

Inside those modes are a lot more fine-tuning capabilities for the gyro. Gyro to Mouse is still considered the de-facto way to implement seamlessly, but Joystick Camera is a compromise for games that don't respond with a controller and mouse simultaneously, to help adjust the gyro in a way that specificly timed flicks of the joystick will result in camera rotation comparable to a mouse. But this is restricted (by blind developers, but not the point) because of internal default assumptions in place, namely:

Joystick Deadzone
Camera Acceleration
Very Low Maximum Turning Speed

Games like Apex Legends and Fortnite allow removal of deadzones and acceleration paths to allow a less-restricted configuration necessary for Gyro to Joystick Camera, but many games will still prevent turning the camera faster than a mouse. This is unfair because a mouse's turning speed depends on the OS sensitivity setting and the hardware capability (mouse DPI), but it goes to show how little thought is given for Joysticks to be used comparable to mice.

Rambling aside...

The new gyro to Joystick Camera mode compensates for these limitations by allowing gyro conversions to meet the minimum intended values, and allowing capped movements to be carried in to the next frames of output. It may make the movement feel "pegged", but it's a compromise for having capped turning speed.

How the new gyro modes help the Joy-Cons

What this means for Joy-Cons is that even a single controller can function as well as a regular Xbox controller, by converting its unused tech to its missing functions like the second analog stick, D-Pad or analog triggers. Swapping is possible with Action Layers and clever button chords, and innovations in reusing analog sticks and button pads can help, such as a single "Change Weapon" button used for swapping the ABXY pads for numbered 1-4, instead of traditionally using the two bumpers to scroll down a list.

But how about a simple use of Joy-Cons?

Air mouse

Gyro	Trigger	Stick
Mouse	Left Click	Mouse

With this setup, you have a simple and very useful Point-and-Click device.

VERY useful for Steam Deck.

Tried it with:

pretty much any game or software that only needs a mouse. And makes navigating Desktop Mode much better when the Deck is docked.

Re: the latency,

Because of the new modes and the backend overhaul, the Joy-Cons can feel like they lose track or overcompensate sometimes, but there's definitely an effort on Steam's end to interpret what's needed and use its best methods to get what's desired. Definitely better than last year in performance, but not as flawless as the Pro Controller or Playstations' gyro. Mind you, the most issues I have are on Windows, but hiccups happen much less often on Steam Deck. It could be the environment, the bluetooth adapter, or the OS influencing the Joy-Cons' connectivity, still unsure at this point.

Introduction to Nintendo Switch Virtual Game Card

Prior to the release of the Nintendo Switch 2, and in the timely release of system firmware version 20.0, players have an alternative to the cloud-based verification method owners with multiple consoles to play their games purchased from the Nintendo e-shop, on top of which is a better way for family members to share their games with each other.

Home menu Virtual Game Cards

Nintendo has an official support article all about the Virtual Game Cards here, but this blog post will describe all you need to know, and other details not covered there.

Virtual Game Card

What is Virtual Game Card

A virtual game card is an abstract representation of a player's digital game and/or Downloadable Content (DLC). It's not necessarily the data, but rather the permission granted by the owner to the console to use the game/DLC. Any user on this console is permitted to play, even offline.

You need both the game data and the Virtual Game Card to play.

You can still download game data to all consoles a player owns or loans to other family members, but the receiving console can only play on one select console by loading its virtual game card, and vice versa; one cannot play the game that has loaded its virtual game card if its data is not installed.

This applies to the entire Nintendo Switch family of systems, including:

original Nintendo Switch
Nintendo Switch Lite
Nintendo Switch OLED
Nintendo Switch 2

The previous generation of Nintendo Switch family of systems need to have their operating system firmware upgraded to version 20.0 or higher.

Prior to Firmware Version 20.0

A player who owns multiple consoles with their same Nintendo Account user had to delegate one console as the "Primary" in the Nintendo e-shop. This "Primary" console was able to, after downloading and installing, play digital games and DLC offline without verification. All other consoles owned by the player required an internet connection to start and play content.

Pass enabled Primary console

Only the user who has purchased the content was permitted to play the downloaded software. Non-primary or not-pass-enabled consoles had to connect to the Internet to check if the current user can play this content, based on their previous purchase or online license.

Check for license

Not only that, but the "Primary" console has priority over all others. If the "Primary" console, with the same Nintendo Switch online account, started up to play a game, current play sessions on all other consoles are suspended until the "Primary" either disconnects from the Internet or closes their running game.

Suspend play

One cannot use a console with the Virtual Game Card and an online license at the same time, but one was never able to play the same game from the same user on two or more different consoles.

Advantages to Virtual Game Cards

There is no longer a sole "Primary" console delegation that has priority permission over the entire library; up to two consoles per Nintendo Switch account user can be linked for Virtual Game Cards.

All users on the console that has the loaded Virtual Game Card are permitted to play, even offline. Prior, only the user with either an Online License to their own copy of the game or the "Primary" user of the console was permitted.

Instead of one console having priority over all games, Virtual Game Card system permits these two consoles to permit offline access for different games between each other.

Exceptions

The following are downloadable content that are known to not use Virtual Game Cards:

Nintendo Switch Online Classic Games Collections
- NES
- SNES
- N64
- Game Boy / Advance
- Sega Mega Drive / Genesis
- Gamecube
- Virtual Boy
Tetris 99
F-Zero 99

Nintendo Switch Online Apps

The common trait is that subscribers' benefits to paid Nintendo Switch Online membership are not considered Virtual Game Cards.

Setup Consoles for Virtual Game Cards

Prerequisites

Only for the setup, both consoles must be in close proximity, connected to the Internet, and have the interested Nintendo Switch online account registered.

After setup, the consoles no longer need to be in close proximity to (un)load Virtual Game Cards.

Prerequisites to Loading Virtual Game Cards

Both of the user's consoles need to be powered on (or in sleep mode) and connected to the Internet.

Download Game Data

Keep in mind that Virtual Game Cards and the downloadable software, data and DLC are independent; loading a Virtual Game Card will not launch a game if the console does not have the data.

Download data from Virtual Card menu

Fortunately, with this system, it's easier to order a console connected to the Internet to pre-download necessary data: use the Virtual Game Card menu from a linked console's Home Menu, or the Account Home page on Nintendo's Website.

Access and (Un)Load Virtual Game Cards

Virtual Game Cards are best easily accessed from the Virtual Game Card menu from one of the linked console's Home Menu.

Home menu Virtual Game Cards

Load game on this system

Alternatively, use the Account Home page on Nintendo's Website to manage virtual game cards between the two pass enabled consoles.

Using the same behavior as prior to Firmware Version 20.0

The previous feature is retained in "Online License Settings". It may be disabled by default after updating the firmware. To re-enable:

Online License Settings

From a Nintendo Switch Home menu, go to the interested User's Page (on the top-left).
Left side, User Settings
Under Nintendo Account, go to Online License Settings
Turn "Use Online License" On.
Afterwards, the next time this User connects to the Nintendo eShop via the applet from the Home Menu, that console will be designated as the Primary console.
- This console can be revoked its Primary status from the Nintendo eShop applet, found near the bottom of its Settings page.

Pass enabled Primary console

This only needs to be enabled from one of the consoles that a user owns. The behavior is retained across all consoles on which the User exists.

Pass Enabled Secondary Console

Although it's only recommended to use this setting for more than two consoles (especially when one requires an Internet connection for most games anyway), enabling this feature and loading all Virtual Game Cards on a dedicated "Primary" console will retain the same behavior as before the new Virtual Game Card feature was released.

What about DLC?

Specifically, what would happen if only one family member.

I believe the answer is that the Virtual Game Card from the user who purchased the DLC should permit other consoles and users loaned their game should permit them to use the downloadable content, simply by loading that card. This needs confirmation, sometime in the future...

Follow up Joy-Cons on Steam

Joy-Cons still in beta

enter image description here

Joy-Cons are still sitting in the Steam Client beta. I've personally noticed random periods of latency, whether or not the controllers are paired together. It's hard to pinpoint when and why it happens, but I notice that it can happen when using the gyro. I've seen this issue pop up in other open source programs that try to tap into the controller as more than an Xbox controller, like reWASD or BetterJoy. Seems that Steam is no different.

Polling

I've read that the polling rate for the Joy-Cons specifically is vaswtly different and concerningly low compared to the Pro Controller and the Dualshock, despite how they all have similar features. It's strange because Joy-Con latency never happens on Switch even at 60fps (frames per second), although dropped inputs are possible in an environment with a lot of spectrum noise.

Best Use of Joy-Cons

I've gotten away with using the Joy-Cons as detached gyro-mice for adventure and narrative games, very comfortable. Sometimes the latency hiccups happen, but with how slow paced those games are, it's easy to remedy or patiently wait for Steam to fix itself. I can't recommend trying anything intense on Steam with Joy-Cons, and it may take some talented minds to reverse-engineer properly how to get these things to work on PC.

Hmm...

Issues happen on a Windows and Steam Deck by the way, across a wide range of Bluetooth adapters. It has to be a misunderstood assumption or three about handling data exchange.

As of December 2022

Joy-Con support is slowly improving. Sometimes, there are latency hiccups whether or not gyro is enabled or controllers are alone or paired, but on the latest stable version it may auto-correct itself over time, but before it felt like the contr0oller inputs were getting either detoured or lost into the void. Finally, the extra buttons on the side are supported, but in classic Valve fashion, configuring them is a clunky mess between handling inputs in the obsolete yet still existing Big Picture configurator, then migrating the updated configuration as a template in the Steam OS (Deck) User Interface. I sweat, the guy that made the Joy-Con ambiguous button icons was responsible for making a cohesive Joy-Con UI, but went on a sabbatical or something, hence the clunky menus during configuration.

As of February 2023

Found this in the Deck UI's controller settings for Joy-Cons, I'd assume other gyro controllers can access this, too.

Gyro Auto Calibration

A screenshot of Steam Big Picture's new auto calibration menu

There's been much debate over the importance of Auto Calibration for gyroscopes within Steam's background. Auto Calibration either over-corrects for bias or doesn't do enough. This finally lets us visualize which values exactly are behaving wonky, and you can tune the tolerance of what Steam considers a bias.

First Try of Joy-Cons on Steam

I've played around with this in the Steam Beta, and so far, Valve has demonstrated the most stable and customizable use of Joy-Cons on PC. It is a mess right now, but I like what's presented so far. Also, current state of beta messed up all other controllers, as betas typically do.

Nntendo Switch Joy-Cons on Steam Input

Impressions

First off, depending on the number of Joy-Cons connected, Steam is abl eto either keep each other horizontally separated or combine the two into a pair.For now, two independent controllers cannot be set up, but there should be a "toggle" by next beta push to allow this.

The control stick forward axis (AKA which way is up) is automatically oriented properly for each left/right/both possible controller set up, which is neat. Most software programs on PC just assume they're always paired, or their native drivers assumed they were separate and not analog.

Configurator

The controller configurator in Steam for Joy-Cons is kinda weird; Steam may think you're customizing a Steam Controller, and I think this happens because, with the added gyroscopes and SL/SR buttons, the layout which the Joy-Cons must follow cannot be a simple Xbox because it would lose all the extra features.

---	Nintendo	Xbox
Gyro	Yes	No
SL/SR	Yes	No

At the time, I guess Valve didn't have time to have a Joy-Con layout in the configurator, so they have the controller default to a Steam Controller layout, because this also has a gyroscope and additional programmable back buttons, unlike the Xbox.

Where is the X button?

.	^	.
<	X	>
.	V	.

When the configurator isn't breaking, it takes some patience to not only recognize what is meant by where buttons belong (especially when horizontal Joy-Con, it's very confusing), but also what is the intended button layout for the face buttons. X is X, but X is on top when in a pair and on the right when horizontal, or if focused on an Xbox legacy layout, it may be on the left. And last possibility, forcing a Playstation-like layout puts X on the bottom. That meme is in full force here.

Pair	Sideways	Xbox	Playstation
^	>	<	V

Some things are missing, too; when in a pair, SL/SR cannot be mapped, and the inverse is true for ZL/ZR/L/R when horizontal. Gyroscope fails to map as well, so I didn't bother testing the controllers with any FPS like Portal or BPM: Bullets Per Minute, hopefully that gets resolved. After all, if the Joy-Con pair is treated like a simple Xbox controller, nothing has changed with Steam's implementation because may other programs have already done this and players are simply happy about it.

When gyroscope finally works, it needs some tweaks too. Which camera axes will gyro movement follow, which controller in a pair will be used for gyro, or can both be used? Can gyro be used horizontally?

Joy-Cons as a Mini-Gamepad

A horizontal Joy-Con works pretty well for simple games like Spelunky and Necrodancer. Almost beat Olmec and Dead Ringer on first try. And I'd imagine the initial wonder of free-handing a pair of broken-off controllers like what everyone did with Breath of the Wild can happen dozens-fold with all the free-roaming exploration games on Steam.

Sticks

I did the stick calibration in the settings, and made sure the deadzones in each configuration were generous. "Stick drift" is about the same as on Switch console, even more manageable in Steam.

PS (post-script)

A toggle to switch Joy-Cons from pairs to separate has been added, Gyro has been added with calibration steps, and layout now mimics a Pro Controller, likely for stability. Still needs an independent layout for split Joy-Cons.