NES Satellite Wireless Four Score

NES Satellite Wireless Four Score

I was nearly shocked when I learned that any information about the ancient piece of tech for the Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) known as the NES Satellite was barely saved by efforts of the WaybackMachine. This is my vailant attempt to recover important information from that article from over 12 years ago that is no easily longer accessible, and provide my own 'research'.

What is it?

The NES Satellite was Nintendo's first wireless accessory for a home video game console, released in 1989, before the more popular wired version, the Four Score. This device allows up to four simultaneous wireless players to connect to a single console.

How does it work?

A small infrared receiver plugs into the NES console's controller ports, allowing players to sit up to 15-20 feet away.

The Satellite deck has a toggle power button to power the deck and transmit to the receiver installed on the console. In testing, it turns itself off when no input is detected after about 10 minutes, so it has a way to preserve battery life.

There's also a switch to change from regular gamepad to 'GUN', or the NES Zapper. This is because the ports use different pins to read the NES Zapper, so this switch tells the Satellite to send the needed Zapper inputs to the console.

It also includes "Turbo" selectors for both the A and B buttons, instantly converting all connected standard controllers into turbo models.

Any issues with it, unlike the wired version, the Four Score?

Unfortunately it does have limitations in the design, mainly the line of sight for its wireless reception. This system works until someone blocks the receiver or the transmitter is moved. The ideal way to operate the Satellite is by placing it on a table at a height similar to the receiver on the console, facing it directly, and ensure nothing can get in between the direct line of communication. Perhaps mirrors can make creative solutions if line of sight is not possible, but this can also provide other unexpected interference.

On the archived site, users have also reported response lag when using all four players simultaneously. It also required 6 large C batteries for power.

Still, for most games that have only two players, or that desire for a kinda-wireless Zapper experience, it's very worthwhile.

Teardown

The following images were recovered from archive.org, originally on the retrofixes.com website but no longer has the blog entry.

The Satellite deck is secured by six Phillips head screws around the rubber feet. The receiver to be connected to the console is secured by four Phillips head screws on the back around the outside.

Removable screws from the bottom and back of the Satellite deck and receiver connector, respectfully

The disassembled receiver

The darker back cover comes off, and the back of the board is exposed, with wires connected to the battery terminals. Four more Phillips head screws secure the board to the top.

Removed outerpiece, additional screws hold motherboard to top

Motherboard removed from Satellite top

My Own Modifications

The power supply circuitry is the Satellite's most critical flaw that must be addressed. I was especially aware of the 6 C batteries required to power the device. But upon research and testing, this power requirement is because the circuit was designed to work on a supply of 9 Volts. 6 times 1.5 equals 9, and C batteries were the compromise to providing a long-enough capacity without frequent replenishment, despite still needing to stock up on this large and rarely used battery type.

What I opted for, instead, was a direct barrel jack connection to the battery terminals in lieu of the batteries. If the device only requires 9 Volts of potential energy, then a 9V switching adapter with a simple barrel jack modification would be perfect. Yes, the Satellite itself would no longer be wireless, being tethered to an AC adapter, but given the problem of blocking the line of sight required for operation, it was a worthwhile tradeoff. Just ensure that the switching adapter supplied connects to the correct side where the positive battery terminal would connect to on the board.

Nintendo Classic Controllers on Switch

Official Nintendo Switch Online Controllers

As of the time of this post, Nintendo has released five sets of controllers based on their original legacy consoles.

  • NES
  • SNES
  • N64
  • Gamecube
  • Sega Mega Drive / Genesis

Advantages

  • Wireless
  • Good battery life
  • Easier maintenance
  • USB-C for charging and connectivity (post-NES)

NES

Charge on console just like joy-cons

SNES

The perfect mini controller w/ D-Pad and 6 buttons

N64

Perfect for entire N64 library

Gamecube

Flexible outside library, very good for 3rd person platformers

Downsides

  • Higher costs
  • Low availability
  • No other modern features
    • gyro
  • Unable to configure controllers (remapping)
  • Some unsustainable materials

NES

  • No other ways to charge these controllers (third party joy-con chargers are not reliable)
  • Very small number of buttons
  • No dogbone variant

SNES

  • Famicom variant only available to Japan

N64

  • Only one color option
  • Thumbstick is less reliable

Genesis / Mega Drive

As many buttons as the NES

Gamecube

Only one color option

The big problems

  • Less flexibility outside intended online library
  • No color variants

Alternatives?

8bitdo DIY

DIY Showcase

8bitdo sells a wide range of replaceable circuit boards for the original intended controllers. They replace the wired method to the original console with a wireless protocol that the Nintendo Switch can find and treat as if it's one of the official wireless Switch Online products.

Because you only purchase the circuit board (the interior), this means that this product can be used with any color, edition, or other custom variant of the legacy controller that you can source. Personally, I have used the DIY N64 edition in order to have some colorful N64 controllers that still work on the Nintendo Switch as well as the intended Switch Online official products.

I personally recommend this for tinkers, especially for those who either own the original controllers, or have ease of access to pre-owned controllers and some electronics tools to open and clean them up.

Handheld Legend

Handheld Legend Website GitHub Repo

HandHeldLegend specializes in building optimal Nintendo Switch Pro Controllers, but they have an ongoing project to source an optimal Nintendo Gamecube controller, compatible with both the legacy console and the Nintendo Switch in preparation for the Gamecube Switch Online library, but of course specially for Smash Bros fanatics with consideration of other flexibility using added modern features, including a sidekick app that can tweak, calibrate and remap bindings without a computer or console.

DaemonBite

Daemonbite Website GitHub Repo

This is a project of build-it-yourself USB adapters to convert existing wired controllers to USB controllers that the Nintendo Switch can recognize as Pro Controllers.

Retro Pi Switch

GitHub Repo

This is a promising open-source project that simply takes the wired protocol of a controller and uses a Raspberry Pi as a converter and transmitter to the Nintendo Switch. Only tinkering done around the connection, no need to touch the controller internals or the Switch software.

Joy-Cons in perpetual beta on Steam Input

Steam Input is frankly broken

Bad news is that support still feels like it's in "perpetual beta". The good news is that Steam Deck can also use Joy-Cons.

For Steam Input overall, there's some kind of backend overhaul happening to get modern controllers and the Steam Deck controller in feature parity, so many controller features seem to be breaking when least expected.

New Gyro Modes

In the midst of this, there are also alternative Gyro modes that will eventually replace the standard:

  • As Mouse, and
  • As Joystick

with:

  • Gyro to Mouse,
  • Gyro to Deflection, and
  • Gyro to...Joystick Camera.

I think this is because a Joystick Camera can become very vague in describing intended implementation; some games whether in 1st or 3rd person allow the camera to be swiveled with right stick, and many modern shooters use it for rotating a camera. The former is accomplished with Deflection, the latter with Camera.

Extra Gyro Settings

Inside those modes are a lot more fine-tuning capabilities for the gyro. Gyro to Mouse is still considered the de-facto way to implement seamlessly, but Joystick Camera is a compromise for games that don't respond with a controller and mouse simultaneously, to help adjust the gyro in a way that specificly timed flicks of the joystick will result in camera rotation comparable to a mouse. But this is restricted (by blind developers, but not the point) because of internal default assumptions in place, namely:

  • Joystick Deadzone
  • Camera Acceleration
  • Very Low Maximum Turning Speed

Games like Apex Legends and Fortnite allow removal of deadzones and acceleration paths to allow a less-restricted configuration necessary for Gyro to Joystick Camera, but many games will still prevent turning the camera faster than a mouse. This is unfair because a mouse's turning speed depends on the OS sensitivity setting and the hardware capability (mouse DPI), but it goes to show how little thought is given for Joysticks to be used comparable to mice.

Rambling aside...

The new gyro to Joystick Camera mode compensates for these limitations by allowing gyro conversions to meet the minimum intended values, and allowing capped movements to be carried in to the next frames of output. It may make the movement feel "pegged", but it's a compromise for having capped turning speed.

How the new gyro modes help the Joy-Cons

What this means for Joy-Cons is that even a single controller can function as well as a regular Xbox controller, by converting its unused tech to its missing functions like the second analog stick, D-Pad or analog triggers. Swapping is possible with Action Layers and clever button chords, and innovations in reusing analog sticks and button pads can help, such as a single "Change Weapon" button used for swapping the ABXY pads for numbered 1-4, instead of traditionally using the two bumpers to scroll down a list.

But how about a simple use of Joy-Cons?

Air mouse

Gyro Trigger Stick
Mouse Left Click Mouse

With this setup, you have a simple and very useful Point-and-Click device.

VERY useful for Steam Deck.

Tried it with:

pretty much any game or software that only needs a mouse. And makes navigating Desktop Mode much better when the Deck is docked.

Re: the latency,

Because of the new modes and the backend overhaul, the Joy-Cons can feel like they lose track or overcompensate sometimes, but there's definitely an effort on Steam's end to interpret what's needed and use its best methods to get what's desired. Definitely better than last year in performance, but not as flawless as the Pro Controller or Playstations' gyro. Mind you, the most issues I have are on Windows, but hiccups happen much less often on Steam Deck. It could be the environment, the bluetooth adapter, or the OS influencing the Joy-Cons' connectivity, still unsure at this point.

Amazon Prime Luna Controller

Getting the Controller

For Prime Day, Amazon was marking down the sale of their controller from $70 to $40. I know I'm not going to use it often, but figured for the price, worth checking out how they make the thing.

enter image description here

The Luna Game-Streaming Service

Luna is unplayable on PC w/ keyboard or phone w/ touch controls unless you're playing a strategy turn-based game. Awkward placement, nothing's configurable, and very noticeable input lag.

But when I got the controller, the whole experience changed. Inputs were more reliably received, and the controller itself feels well-built, practically fused together. I'll know why later. 😉

Still, there are consistent video frame drops and a very annoying audio clang that happens every now and then, as if the audio quality dropped into a chasm. Imagine a Sega Genesis sound chip on its dying breath. No desyncs or broken connections, so there's that stability there, but I can't count on the cloud streaming service...

That being said, it's cool that controllers can be their own Wi-Fi devices instead of always relying on Bluetooth. As long as the ad-hoc network is stable, it's a good alternative, worry less about disconnecting from being too far away or too much spectrum noise near the console/TV.

...but because I'd rather not have my inputs sent to Amazon or any other large corp... I started taking it apart, especially because I can't find a guide anywhere on how.

Controller Teardown

So for the purposes of fun:

Amazon Luna Teardown on ifixit Website

The top matte plate can be popped off with a flat screwdriver, some spudgers and patience. Once that's off, six Torque screws from the top, spread evenly and all the same size. K, but the thing doesn't budge open.

Until undoing after 10 big clips and God knows how many tiny ones all around the handle...

The guide's up on iFixit for others to follow, but for disclosure, I'm kinda scared because this controller's been around for a year yet no one has contributed. Only clue I had of the internals were a photo of the plate and bottom removed and a link to a teardown on a YouTube video that's been removed for months.

Follow up Joy-Cons on Steam

Joy-Cons still in beta

enter image description here

Joy-Cons are still sitting in the Steam Client beta. I've personally noticed random periods of latency, whether or not the controllers are paired together. It's hard to pinpoint when and why it happens, but I notice that it can happen when using the gyro. I've seen this issue pop up in other open source programs that try to tap into the controller as more than an Xbox controller, like reWASD or BetterJoy. Seems that Steam is no different.

Polling

I've read that the polling rate for the Joy-Cons specifically is vaswtly different and concerningly low compared to the Pro Controller and the Dualshock, despite how they all have similar features. It's strange because Joy-Con latency never happens on Switch even at 60fps (frames per second), although dropped inputs are possible in an environment with a lot of spectrum noise.

Best Use of Joy-Cons

I've gotten away with using the Joy-Cons as detached gyro-mice for adventure and narrative games, very comfortable. Sometimes the latency hiccups happen, but with how slow paced those games are, it's easy to remedy or patiently wait for Steam to fix itself. I can't recommend trying anything intense on Steam with Joy-Cons, and it may take some talented minds to reverse-engineer properly how to get these things to work on PC.

Hmm...

Issues happen on a Windows and Steam Deck by the way, across a wide range of Bluetooth adapters. It has to be a misunderstood assumption or three about handling data exchange.

As of December 2022

Joy-Con support is slowly improving. Sometimes, there are latency hiccups whether or not gyro is enabled or controllers are alone or paired, but on the latest stable version it may auto-correct itself over time, but before it felt like the contr0oller inputs were getting either detoured or lost into the void. Finally, the extra buttons on the side are supported, but in classic Valve fashion, configuring them is a clunky mess between handling inputs in the obsolete yet still existing Big Picture configurator, then migrating the updated configuration as a template in the Steam OS (Deck) User Interface. I sweat, the guy that made the Joy-Con ambiguous button icons was responsible for making a cohesive Joy-Con UI, but went on a sabbatical or something, hence the clunky menus during configuration.

As of February 2023

Found this in the Deck UI's controller settings for Joy-Cons, I'd assume other gyro controllers can access this, too.

Gyro Auto Calibration

A screenshot of Steam Big Picture's new auto calibration menu

There's been much debate over the importance of Auto Calibration for gyroscopes within Steam's background. Auto Calibration either over-corrects for bias or doesn't do enough. This finally lets us visualize which values exactly are behaving wonky, and you can tune the tolerance of what Steam considers a bias.

First Try of Joy-Cons on Steam

I've played around with this in the Steam Beta, and so far, Valve has demonstrated the most stable and customizable use of Joy-Cons on PC. It is a mess right now, but I like what's presented so far. Also, current state of beta messed up all other controllers, as betas typically do.

Nntendo Switch Joy-Cons on Steam Input

Impressions

First off, depending on the number of Joy-Cons connected, Steam is abl eto either keep each other horizontally separated or combine the two into a pair.For now, two independent controllers cannot be set up, but there should be a "toggle" by next beta push to allow this.

The control stick forward axis (AKA which way is up) is automatically oriented properly for each left/right/both possible controller set up, which is neat. Most software programs on PC just assume they're always paired, or their native drivers assumed they were separate and not analog.

Configurator

The controller configurator in Steam for Joy-Cons is kinda weird; Steam may think you're customizing a Steam Controller, and I think this happens because, with the added gyroscopes and SL/SR buttons, the layout which the Joy-Cons must follow cannot be a simple Xbox because it would lose all the extra features.

--- Nintendo Xbox
Gyro Yes No
SL/SR Yes No

At the time, I guess Valve didn't have time to have a Joy-Con layout in the configurator, so they have the controller default to a Steam Controller layout, because this also has a gyroscope and additional programmable back buttons, unlike the Xbox.

Where is the X button?

. ^ .
< X >
. V .

When the configurator isn't breaking, it takes some patience to not only recognize what is meant by where buttons belong (especially when horizontal Joy-Con, it's very confusing), but also what is the intended button layout for the face buttons. X is X, but X is on top when in a pair and on the right when horizontal, or if focused on an Xbox legacy layout, it may be on the left. And last possibility, forcing a Playstation-like layout puts X on the bottom. That meme is in full force here.

Pair Sideways Xbox Playstation
^ > < V

Some things are missing, too; when in a pair, SL/SR cannot be mapped, and the inverse is true for ZL/ZR/L/R when horizontal. Gyroscope fails to map as well, so I didn't bother testing the controllers with any FPS like Portal or BPM: Bullets Per Minute, hopefully that gets resolved. After all, if the Joy-Con pair is treated like a simple Xbox controller, nothing has changed with Steam's implementation because may other programs have already done this and players are simply happy about it.

When gyroscope finally works, it needs some tweaks too. Which camera axes will gyro movement follow, which controller in a pair will be used for gyro, or can both be used? Can gyro be used horizontally?

Joy-Cons as a Mini-Gamepad

A horizontal Joy-Con works pretty well for simple games like Spelunky and Necrodancer. Almost beat Olmec and Dead Ringer on first try. And I'd imagine the initial wonder of free-handing a pair of broken-off controllers like what everyone did with Breath of the Wild can happen dozens-fold with all the free-roaming exploration games on Steam.

Sticks

I did the stick calibration in the settings, and made sure the deadzones in each configuration were generous. "Stick drift" is about the same as on Switch console, even more manageable in Steam.

PS (post-script)

A toggle to switch Joy-Cons from pairs to separate has been added, Gyro has been added with calibration steps, and layout now mimics a Pro Controller, likely for stability. Still needs an independent layout for split Joy-Cons.